Wanderer Category: Technical

Blog

Making a Nav Cab

Andy Powell shows us how: One thing that appealed to me about the Wanderer, was its adaptability. My previous boat, a Laser 2000, was excellent in many ways, but offered little scope for modification.  In short, I wanted a boat I could drill holes in.  My 1993 Anglo Marine Wanderer W1138 (named Medusa by her first owner) has proven an ideal test bed for several projects, and one of the first has been to make a cabinet to store equipment for cruising.   As a former cadet-officer and an instructor, I have acquired quite a bit of kit that I like to take out on cruises.  I want things to hand in the boat, but not under my feet.  I also wanted to be able to store all these things tidily on a shelf in my garage when not in use, and to be readily transportable to and from the

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Swapping steel centre plate for wooden and vice versa

Start by removing the spacer strips at the top of the centre casing, this will give move freedom of movement when removing the steel plate.  These are not needed with the wooden board at it is thicker.  Also remove the lifting and holding tackle from the steel plate so it will be free to remove. Remove the launching trolley and Wanderer from the road trailer and then, locating a level piece of ground or grass (with perhaps an off-cut of carpet to protect the boat) partly slide the boat from the launching trolley with the aid of a box or wooden trestle. Support the bows with the rear of the launching trolley and the stern with the aid of another support.  Aim to have the bottom of the boat approximately 850 to 980mm above ground (a friend’s launching trolley or a collection of tyres would be ideal). This operation must

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RYA SafeTRX

Previous Next The best thing you can download in 2019 App review by Simon Edsforth Being reasonably new to sailing I’m always on the lookout for good safety gear. Staying safe on the water is the highest priority for all sailors, just above having a great time. One of the biggest selling points for owners of a Wanderer is that it is easily sailed singlehanded, being light to handle and easy to launch and recover. Not to mention at a reasonable price. So there I was mid July, full of confidence following WandererFest 2018, frustrated by the lack of willing crew during the sunny summer weekdays with glassy water and an easy breeze. I had no option but to head out solo. There’s something exhilirating about it, just you, the boat, the wind and the waves. But life isn’t always plain sailing, bits break, forecasts are just that – stuff

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Attaching Fenders

Having found that occasionally additional fendering is both useful and necessary while river cruising, especially when passing through a lock, or tying-up alongside a rough river-bank, the problem was how to attach conventional fenders to a Wanderer that is short of convenient attachment points. The solution was to run a line from the bow fitting along both sides of the deck, passing through the spinnaker reaching hooks and halyard leads then back to the swivel block and guy cleats. The line can be held taught and is suitable for attaching fenders at any point along the hull. Having established this as a practical solution to the problem, I then came across something even better! A chandler came up with suction-mounted fender attachments – basically they are PVC suckers with adjustable lengths of webbing -strap to which fenders can be attached. These stick well to any smooth surface of which there are

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More Fender Fixings

If you feel the need to attach fenders to your wanderer, here is how I have arranged mine:- I have a bow fender, a “V” shaped thing, about 14″ across. It has a strap at the apex of the “V” and two holes, one at each of the other extremities. To the aperture in the strap I have added an 1.5inch snap hook which attaches to a short, adjustable line* from the bow fitting. The other two holes in the bow fender are joined by another line which forms a larger “V” than the fender itself. This line is then joined to another line ,with a free-running loop, to the mooring cleat on the foredeck. The purpose of this arrangement is to allow the fender to be stowed, without detaching, under the boat cover when not in use; only the snap hook needs to be released. The short adjustable line from

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Fitting A Topping Lift

If you mostly sail with a crew, like to row or use an outboard, want to rig a simple boat tent or have a picnic afloat while at anchor of secured to a mooring buoy then you will know all about the inconvenience of having to accommodate the boom and mainsail within the boat while undertaking any of the above. One way to increase the space available on board, and thereby everyone’s comfort, would be to leave the boom and sail rigged but with the sail lowered. If this could be achieved then the extra headroom and comfort would be most welcome. How is this to be done? – by borrowing an additional rigging system from the big yachts, namely the Topping Lift. This system essentially keeps the boom horizontal with the sail down by supporting the outward end of the boom with a line run through a block at

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