Wanderer Category: Hints and Tips

Swapping steel centre plate for wooden and vice versa

Start by removing the spacer strips at the top of the centre casing, this will give move freedom of movement when removing the steel plate.  These are not needed with the wooden board at it is thicker.  Also remove the lifting and holding tackle from the steel plate so it will be free to remove. Remove the launching trolley and Wanderer from the road trailer and then, locating a level piece of ground or grass (with perhaps an off-cut of carpet to protect the boat) partly slide the boat from the launching trolley with the aid of a box or wooden trestle. Support the bows with the rear of the launching trolley and the stern with the aid of another support.  Aim to have the bottom of the boat approximately 850 to 980mm above ground (a friend’s launching trolley or a collection of tyres would be ideal). This operation must

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Attaching Fenders

Having found that occasionally additional fendering is both useful and necessary while river cruising, especially when passing through a lock, or tying-up alongside a rough river-bank, the problem was how to attach conventional fenders to a Wanderer that is short of convenient attachment points. The solution was to run a line from the bow fitting along both sides of the deck, passing through the spinnaker reaching hooks and halyard leads then back to the swivel block and guy cleats. The line can be held taught and is suitable for attaching fenders at any point along the hull. Having established this as a practical solution to the problem, I then came across something even better! A chandler came up with suction-mounted fender attachments – basically they are PVC suckers with adjustable lengths of webbing -strap to which fenders can be attached. These stick well to any smooth surface of which there are

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More Fender Fixings

If you feel the need to attach fenders to your wanderer, here is how I have arranged mine:- I have a bow fender, a “V” shaped thing, about 14″ across. It has a strap at the apex of the “V” and two holes, one at each of the other extremities. To the aperture in the strap I have added an 1.5inch snap hook which attaches to a short, adjustable line* from the bow fitting. The other two holes in the bow fender are joined by another line which forms a larger “V” than the fender itself. This line is then joined to another line ,with a free-running loop, to the mooring cleat on the foredeck. The purpose of this arrangement is to allow the fender to be stowed, without detaching, under the boat cover when not in use; only the snap hook needs to be released. The short adjustable line from

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Fitting A Topping Lift

If you mostly sail with a crew, like to row or use an outboard, want to rig a simple boat tent or have a picnic afloat while at anchor of secured to a mooring buoy then you will know all about the inconvenience of having to accommodate the boom and mainsail within the boat while undertaking any of the above. One way to increase the space available on board, and thereby everyone’s comfort, would be to leave the boom and sail rigged but with the sail lowered. If this could be achieved then the extra headroom and comfort would be most welcome. How is this to be done? – by borrowing an additional rigging system from the big yachts, namely the Topping Lift. This system essentially keeps the boom horizontal with the sail down by supporting the outward end of the boom with a line run through a block at

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Hints and Tips

Avoiding Jib-forestay Tangles

The picture above shows a simple spacer that can be made up from a piece of Perspex [have also seen in wood -Ed] and three Holt Allen HA144 forestay jib clips. The dimensions are not critical and the spacer has been directly copied from a similar one seen on a boat at a Wayfarer cruising weekend some years ago. The Perspex [wood] is simply cut to size and drilled for the stainless steel screws that hold the HA144 clips in place. The spacer is fitted above the upper jib-furling swivel with the single clip attached to the forestay and the double clips attached to the jib halyard wire. This spacer seems to work very well as long as the forestay does not have too much slack in it as a result of tensioning the jib luff. To make 100% sure of no tangles it would be advisable to make some

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Centreboard Friction Device

I had some problems with the centre board; It didn’t want to stay down after storage. It seemed that the “park” position compressed the friction pad so that it wouldn’t hold in the down or part-down position.In order to rectify this I added a 22mm wide strip of aluminium (B&Q) to the existing strip of keel band above the polythene tubing. I also inserted a 42mm Halfords rubber exhaust ring (79p) into the polythene tube and replaced the whole assembly. The theory behind this was that the rubber ring compressed as it was into the tube would add just enough resilience to enable the friction pad to expand into the centre board casing and provide some resistance. So far it has been successful, although I haven’t left it “parked” for more than a week yet; and I hope I wont have to! I was able to do this with the centre board

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