Installation of the Anglo-Marine outboard motor bracket is a straightforward job.

However, it is important to ensure dimensional accuracy is determined before any holes are drilled through the transom. Use good quality and correctly sharpened drills to ensure that cleanly cut holes are produced.
The golden rule of “check and re-check” prior to cutting the fibreglass and/or wooden structure applies fully to all work carried out on the dinghy.
Stainless steel (316 grade) countersunk screws either 5/16” or 8mm dia x 2” (50mm) should be used together with self-locking stainless steel nuts and washers.
As manufacturers of the outboard bracket may differ, determine the required screw sizes from the diameter of the holes in your particular bracket.

1. It is good practice to apply masking tape to the appropriate areas of the transom to easily identify the essential datum (marking out) lines. The tape also reduces the risk of ‘drill-wander’ on the polished hull surface.

2. Therefore, make sure the area is clean and grease free before commencing work and equip yourself with a sharpened pencil and an engineer’s rule.

3. Establish the centre-line of the transom by accurately marking an axial line between the rudder pintles.

4. When looking at the transom of the dinghy, the upper right-hand outboard bracket hole is the primary location (index point) and the position for this is determined at 8.0 inches (203 mm) from the dinghy centre-line and 11.0 inches (280 mm) directly above the hull underside.

5. The “cross-point” of the two lines now drawn is the centre for this fastening. Drill a 1/8” (3.2mm) pilot hole through the transom at this point. If correctly located, the exit point of this hole should be just to the right of the port side aft locker latch access cutout.

6. This cutout provides accessibility to the upper bracket fastening nuts on the inside of the transom.

7. Dependant on the size of the (s/s) countersunk head fasteners supplied, open up this hole to the most appropriate screw clearance size. (Typically 8 mm).

8. Assemble one attachment screw through the outboard bracket and into the drilled hole through the transom. With the bracket held square and level, drill though the remaining holes using the outboard bracket casting as a template.

9. Note – If installing to a “type MD” Wanderer a ‘long-series’ drill will be required to drill the 2 lower bracket mounting positions. These 2 holes will exit inside the aft locker.
In this instance, drill back through the buoyancy foam only inside the locker using a flat blade hole saw or counterbore cutter of a size just larger than the box spanner or socket that will be used to tighten the lower mounting screw nuts.

10. NB - The use of a flat bottom cutter will ensure that a clean, square seating face is provided for the nut and washer on the inside surface of the transom.

11. I recommend the use of a hard rubber gasket (about 2.0 - 2.5 mm thick) between the outboard bracket and the hull. If such material is not available, a rubberised sealing compound (such as that used for windows, etc) would suffice. This not only provides a water seal but also reduces vibrations from the motor being transmitted through the boat.

12. Cut a rectangle 8” (200 mm) x 2½” (65 mm) from a 1/8” (3 mm) thick sheet of nylon or polypropylene (colour irrelevant as it is hidden) that must be used as stiffening on the inside of the upper fastenings only. Drill the fastening screw holes through the plastic in a central position again using the bracket as a template.

13. Assemble screws through bracket, place gasket on the rear of the bracket and locate onto the dinghy. The use of 316 grade stainless steel “Nylock” nuts is preferred to provide permanent anti-vibration thread locking. Alternatively, apply “Loctite” on the screw threads if plain nuts are used.

14. Finally, refill the foam holes inside the locker with “No-Gaps” or mastic sealant and the job is complete.
Any queries or comments do feel free to contact me anytime.

Don’t forget to attach a safety line to secure your motor to the mounting before you cast off!

Happy outboarding!
Peter R. Mansfield
Wanderer 1162 “Partout”
Melbourne, Australia