The author describes here his own particular approach to lowering the mast while afloat but is appreciative that alternate methods may very well be found more suitable for other individual sailors and that each will inevitably develop their own particular method. The description given here however should well provide those Wanderer owners, yet to tackle this issue, with a foundation and set of guidelines on which they can base and develop their own method.

I agree that the thought of dropping several meters of mast, boom, sails and standing rigging into the boat while afloat would seem a little daunting. It demands attention to detail, early planning and an organised boat. However once a system has been evolved, refined and learned plus the acquisition of some additional helpful equipment, then the scale of the task dramatically diminishes, becomes much less intimidating and finally second nature.

The method described here should be generally applicable in most situations where the boat is moored for the actual mast drop. Little adaptation is necessary in order to evolve a procedure for use while continuing to make way and drop the mast without the need to stop. This is probably the ultimate and most efficient mast dropping procedure.

For the purpose of the description here I have assumed that there is a crew on board and that the boat has a furling jib and an outboard engine attached.

The additional equipment mentioned early refers to:-

1. A mast crutch [see inset photo] to support and secure the mast once lowered and keep it [the mast] clear of the tiller and extension. Note that the mast and running rigging will overhand the rear of the boat by approximately 4 mtrs once lowered!
   
   The crutch comprises a simple pivoting timber frame with ‘scissor’ action. This is easily made from some treated 50 x 25 mm timber and a single nut & bolt at the pivot with washers.
   
   
   On my own I have cut the base of each ‘leg’ at an angle so as to be parallel with the surface on which it stands when erected at the rear of the boat. I have also padded the surface of both legs and ‘V’ with rubber to minimise the potential for damage to the boat and to prevent slipping.
   
   The crutch can be stored along side the centreboard casing, under the foredeck or in the aft locker. The ’V’ at the top should be deep enough to house at least the full diameter of the mast.
   
   If no crutch is employed then the mast spreaders will carry all the weight and will bear down on the lid of the aft locker. Not good for spreaders or lid, but more importantly the low angle of the mast will bring it into conflict with the engine and tiller and make access to and steering very awkward. Improvising a crutch by resting the mast on your shoulder is not recommended as it restricts movement in an emergency and gets heavier over time.
   
2. An outboard engine – maneuvering the boat with the mast down is a little problematic due to the restricted space and the limited mobility imposed on the helm and crew. 
   
   There is insufficient room at the thwart under the mast to consider rowing. Paddling is possible with a crew, for balance, for short distances and with favourable tides. I would suggest it is not an option if single handed.
   
   An engine is recommended as it overcomes these problems and with the mast on a crutch, as above, access to the engine controls and tiller is reasonable. The outboard bracket also permits use of the rudder with the engine.
   
3. Forestay Blocks and Line – This allows safer and controlled lowering of the mast from within the boat with less effort and avoids a reluctant crew having to sprawl over the foredeck in order to reach and detach the cord which normally attaches the forestay to the stem head fitting. Again without this aid or something similar I would suggest that mast lowering if single handed is not an option if to be done safely.
   
   The modification comprises a single block with becket attached to the stem head fitting using the pin furthest forward [see inset photo] and a further single block fitted to the forestay eyelet. A line of sufficient size and material [I use the same as for halyards] is tied to the block on the stem head and then run through and round the forestay block before being returned round the stem head block and routed back into the boat for cleating off. I cleat to the large fitting on the foredeck just in front of the mast and stow the remainder of the line coiled in a bucket or siimilar. It is possible to run the line aft if required [Anglo Marine offer this as an option].
   
   The inset photo should make all this very much clearer!
   
4. 
   Some pointers are required here – it is easy to buy and fit these blocks and line yourself or note that this arrangement is now offered as an option by Anglo Marine Services and can be purchased for around £25?
   If you decide to do the work yourself bear in mind that the line needs to be of sufficient length to accommodate the mast fully lowered and still have ample length within the boat with which to initiate lowering/raising the mast from aft. The actual length is much longer than you might first imagine!
   
   Also if the existing distance between the end of the forestay [eyelet] and the stem head fitting is small then it may be necessary to have the forestay shortened to facilitate the extra space taken up by the two blocks. You will not be able to remove all the ‘slack’ from the forestay if this distance is too small [see inset photo for clarification].
   
   Once you have invested in this forestay modification there is the added benefit in that it will also assist in ‘normal’ mast raising and lowering ashore – very handy if you are sailing single handed.

Having got the extra equipment out of the way I think we are now ready to describe the basic mast lowering method. It assumes you have the above extras, a crew, furling jib and an outboard. The sequence describe is that used by myself but, of course, can be customised to suit.

1. Keep it tidy – stow the crutch in a position where it is easy to reach [e.g. along side the centre casing], have the tabernacle pivot pin to hand [I secure mine with a light cord to avoid loosing it – see inset photo]. Keep lines/halyards coiled and snag free, especially the jib halyard, which we all know will manufacture ‘figure of 8’ and ‘reef’ knots in abundance during jib lowering. Also the new forestay line.
   
2. Preparation – Pick your spot early where you will moor [bank or buoy]. Consider wind, tide and other boats also the 4 mtr of mast overhang! If lowering while under way choose an area of clear water. Allow plenty of time – better to have to motor a little further to the bridge with a lowered mast than to arrive at the bridge with it still up and discover there is no room to moor up.
   
   After mooring furl the jib. Remove and safely stow the mast foot pin. Drop the main, release the kicker, detach and lay the boom and flaked mainsail orderly to one side. Tidy all lines. Raise the board leaving just a little down for some ‘bite’ when the outboard is deployed. Lower outboard and turn fuel on. It is much easier to do these action now than when the boom, jib, main and mast are cramping your style! Place the mast crutch toward the rear of the boat. Check that there are deliberate figure of 8 knots in both main and jib halyards to prevent them disappearing up the mast!
   
   Release the rig tension by opening the Highfield lever leaving the jib wire halyard attached to the lever’s ‘hook’. Ease the forestay tension by releasing the ‘new’ forestay line a little so it just sags. This is important if the mast foot pin has been removed as we don’t want to allow the mast to be able to move forward out of the track! This will now allow easier insertion of the mast pivot pin through the tabernacle and mast [note that you are not supposed to sail with this pin inserted!], some ‘jiggling’ may be needed. The forestay line can now be re-tightened if required.
   
   Helm and crew have a final check round and tidy up before they are ‘partitioned’ by the mast barrier! This will be the last time to easily check or stow any item before the boat becomes very cramped. Check aft in case someone has moored there or something has encroached into the space where the mast is about to be dropped. As mentioned before there will be about 4 mtrs of mast and rigging hanging out the back of the boat after dropping the mast!!
   
   If all is ok then proceed to drop the mast.
   
   
3. Mast Drop – Before we commence to lower the mast consider the rig geometry for a moment. With the jib still attached to the stem head fitting then for the mast to be lowered the jib halyard must be fed progressively into the block at the mast foot. If this is done smoothly and at the same rate as the mast is lowered then the furled jib will end up lying alongside the mast. If the jib halyard is just ‘let go’ by the crew then there is a possibility that the jib may end up in the water!
   
   Also note that the shrouds remain fastened to the boat and become slack as the mast is lowered. They may need to be gathered in to the boat to avoid snagging.
   
   Right here we go then – ensure that the forestay line is reasonable tight and still cleated off. The mast foot pin should have been removed and the pivot pin inserted [all as previously described]. If all is ok then the crew releases the jib wire halyard from the Highfield lever hook and keeps hold of the halyard to prevent the jib dropping in the water.
   
   Gently un-cleat the forestay line and prepare to take up the tension – crew passes to helm. Normally the helm, positioned to one side at the rear of the boat, would control the mast lowering with the forestay line [hence my earlier note regarding the length of this line] and the crew, positioned to the other side of the boat for balance, feeds the jib halyard up the mast and guides the mast laterally to keep it amidships.
   
   It may assist the helm’s control if a single turn of the forestay line is taken round the foredeck cleat to give some friction during the lowering process. The helm should have the mast crutch to hand and should deploy it and guide the mast into the crutch ‘V’ at which point the tension comes off the forestay line and lowering ceases!
   
4. Getting Underway – With the mast safely down both crew and helm now attend to checking and tidying the boat and stowing surplus kit. Make sure the mast crutch is at right angles to the mast to avoid it slipping. Check that all rigging is inboard and there are no crossed lines or tangles. Location of the mast foot pin is known for quick access later [e.g. in crew’s pocket?]. There is a small amount of board down to assist with steering. It is not until the mast, boom, rigging and sails are deposited in the boat that the benefit of carrying out as much preparation and tidying up beforehand become apparent.
   
   With all final checks complete the helm can start the engine, check for other traffic both on the river and passing under or preparing to pass under [in both directions!] the bridge, cast off [watching the mast overhang does not get caught with anything on the bank!] and proceed out into the river where he should align the boat with the correct approach for the bridge [centre of arch/span]. Engine throttle may also need adjustment especially if going against a strong flow.
   
   


Be vigilant for traffic coming through the bridge from the other direction and be prepared for a strong flow caused by the bridge [especially if narrow] restricting flow.

Once safely through the helm must decide whether to moor again in order to raise the mast or carry this out while underway.

For the purpose of this method we will moor up [bank or buoy] again at some convenient point away from the immediate vicinity of the bridge using same precautions and checks as before.




5. Mast Raising – Essentially this is the reverse of the lowering procedure. Having safely moored, having regard for the mast overhand, wind and tide [if any], stopped engine and turned off the fuel, the helm and crew check the boat for snagged/trapped rigging and lines and free off if required.
   
   The crew locates and passes the helm the forestay line and he/she starts the mast up by lifting it clear of the crutch ‘V’ and taking up the tension on the line. The crutch is folded up and temporarily stowed out of the way. As the mast continues to come up the crew steadies it to keep it amidships while pulling in the jib halyard, at a rate equal to the mast progress, though the mast foot blocks to prevent the jib falling out of the boat. Both crew and helm continually check for potential snagging [shrouds getting caught round the tiller extension, boom or outboard arm are all popular and fun!] and the crew maintains tension on the jib halyard to prevent it dropping.
   
   As the mast approaches a near vertical position the crew checks the alignment of the mast foot with the slot in the mast foot plate and makes any necessary guidance adjustment. Once the mast is fully vertical and the foot engaged in the plate the crew places the jib halyard loop over the Highfield lever ‘hook’, cleats of the forestay line, and inserts the mast foot pin through the holes in the floor plate - phew. At this point the mast pivot pin should be removed and stowed before any increase in rig tension is applied.
   
   The jib is effectively already hoisted and so the Highfield lever can be positioned on the appropriate notch and the lever closed. The now slack forestay can be re-tensioned using the line and cleated off. All that remains is to raise the main sail [prevailing wind permitting] attach both boom and kicker before finally raising and securing the outboard [check fuel off?].
   
   Final check and adjustment to rig, centre board and boat generally before casting off and continuing your passage ......... to find, just round the next bend in the river there is another !*!*!*! - you know what! Well at least you now have one mast lowering under your belt, so to speak.
   
   I strongly suggest that you practice and develop a method that is suitable and easy for yourself and crew. Although the above may seem somewhat daunting at first with practice and effort it will become second nature eventually and I hope the above method will provide the impetus to try and to develop your own mast lowering procedure.

Photos and text by Terry Pullen May 2001