WCOA_Higher Faster Safer

HIGHER, FASTER, GET THERE QUICKER (This is only the tip of the iceberg)

Rig set-up for Wanderers:

	Mast rake 22’ 2” or 6755 mm top of mast to mainsheet track.
	Back of mast heel to aft bulkhead 7’ 2” or 2185 mm
	Pre-bend in mast, with taut main halyard to gooseneck and jib tension on. 1” or 25 mm.
	Rig tension 250 to 300 lbs

Essential controls: All must be friction free and easily adjustable.

	Properly adjusted toestraps, screwed or bolted under thwart so that helm and crew straps are independent of each other
	Kicker minimum 8:1 preferably 12:1. Mark so that you can repeat settings.
	Outhaul 4:1. Mark boom so that you can repeat settings.
	Cunningham (mainsail downhaul) 4:1 but use it only when overpowered.
	Mainsheet, either traveller or bridle. Must have good ratchet block. Max 8 mm line.
	Jibsheet must be marked so that you can repeat settings. Max 8 mm line.

Boatspeed and pointing:

Understand the difference between “driving” (or “footing”) and “pointing”. Drive hard off the line for max boat speed, with sheets very slightly eased. Then harden up, sheets fully in, and point as high as possible (but don’t overdo it). Same coming out of a tack. Drive for boatspeed then point.

When pointing, jib hard in and eased about 1”. Jib telltales streaming with inner telltales on the point of lifting. Mainsheet and kicker adjusted so that the boom is close to the centreline and the top leech telltale just begins to curl under. Feel how the boat is going. If she feels slow, ease sheets slightly and go for speed then try pointing again.

Continually steer the boat through the waves using maximum body movement and minimum rudder. Look for the line of least resistance. Luff up the face of each wave and bear away over the crest.

Sail the boat absolutely upright. Why?

	Maximum power from sails.
	Maximum resistance from centreboard.
	Minimum drag from rudder.
	Minimum weather helm.
	Maximum power from crew weight when hiking.
	Underwater hull shape symmetrical as the designer intended, with minimum drag.
	N.B. Unless the rudder feels neutral and the boat feels as if it is falling over on top of you, you are not sailing upright.

Going in the right direction:

As a general rule, unless there is a good reason to do otherwise, always sail the tack which points you closest to the next mark. If the boat is heading more than 45 degrees away from the mark consider tacking.

Do not tack without a specific reason. Tacking loses speed and distance so learn to roll tack which enables you to come out of the tack at the same speed you went in.

Watch continually for wind shifts. Learn how to tell when you are “lifted” or “headed”.

	Watch an identifiable object on the horizon.
	Watch your compass. Be aware of the high and low readings on each tack.
	Watch the angle of sailing of boats ahead of you, and observe whether they appear lifted or headed. That is the wind coming to you.

Learn to distinguish a pattern of oscillating shifts from a permanent shift. In a regularly shifting breeze, play the shifts up the beat, and try to get “in sync” with the shift pattern.

If you think there is (or will be) a permanent shift, sail towards the new wind.

Anticipate gusts and sit out hard before they reach you. A gust = more power= opportunity to go faster. Don’t waste it.

Head for the big black cloud. There may be more wind on the edge of it, and maybe a lift.

If you manage to make a significant gain by playing the shifts, on the next header tack so as to cross the bows of your opposition and consolidate your position.

If behind try to separate from the opposition, but not if it means sailing in the wrong direction. Separation = leverage in case of a favourable shift.

Reading: Study some good books on boatspeed, tactics and strategy.

Gavin Barr

August 2008.