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Picture this - azure blue sea, cloudless sky,
temperatures in the high twenties and centre canvas - a fleet of beautiful, local classic
sailing vessels preparing to set sail in the balmy F3, their tanned sails stark against
the clear sky.
Where could this be? Perhaps a Mediterranean fishing port? Well no actually, for this was the scene that greeted us on our arrival at Whitstable Yacht Club on the morning of Sat August 8th. A fanciful comparison? Well perhaps just a little, however the description accurately depicted the view that greeted us on our arrival for WCOA’s regular Whitstable cruise organised by Gavin Barr {W1282}and based on Whitstable Yacht Club. Unfortunately curtailed this year to the Sunday, there was, however, an open invitation to enjoy the club’s hospitality and facilities and to have an afternoons sail on the Saturday - but more of this later.
Once we had parked the car and deposited the boat within the WYC’s boat park we set off to explore this small but bustling North Kent fishing town located on the Swale estuary. The town has charm and character and appears to have escaped most attempts to modernise - no ubiquitous shopping malls here but a main street with a network of old lanes and alleys, timber buildings and a variety of interesting shops, cafes and restaurants.
Whitstable’s history is very much entwined with the sea. Its reputation and long association with fishing, oysters in particular, is still evident today as demonstrated by the Whitstable Oyster Company’s presence in the town and harbour. Native oysters are still farmed here, indeed the ‘farms’ have to be avoided when sailing. The excellent fish restaurants are a welcome spin-off from these activities and the picturesque timber fisherman’s huts, on the foreshore and along side the harbour, are another reminder of the town’s maritime history.
There is a network of narrow alleyways running between the old town timber and stone cottages. These serve as short cuts from the busier areas to the quieter streets and lanes beyond. Some even deposit you directly onto the beach. If you know where to look you can even find a full size ageing Whitstable oyster ‘smack’ on display at the end of one of these alleys! The local cinema is ‘different’! Timber panelled and located in the upper half of a converted oyster warehouse. It is the only cinema I know of where it is possible take your seat carrying a cup of coffee, or something stronger, from the adjacent small bar/coffee bar.
We spent an hour or so exploring. Visits to the Tourist Information Centre, tea and cake at the church coffee morning while the local sea cadets entertained passing shoppers with drum and glockenspiel!
We returned the small distance to the WYC where we prepared the boat for an afternoons sail. Darts are a popular boat at this club and several were being readied as were Merlin Rockets - apparently there was to be a Ladies race at 15:00 hrs. Activity was also increasing on both beach and water as the brilliant weather tempted more people to participate in the ‘3S’s’ - Sunbathing, Swimming and Sailing.
we were joined by Gavin and
Caroline Barr, newly arrived, and lunch was taken on the club’s elevated timber
terrace with its excellent views over the Swale and Thames estuaries. The fleet of classic
boats, which so enhanced the scene at our arrival and comprising huge Sailing Barges with
the smaller Smacks and Yawls - a total of about 10 vessels in all - had departed some
hours earlier but were now spotted, some distance off, returning from their race {The
annual Whitstable Smack and Sailing Barge Match}. We busied our selves with getting afloat
in order to get a closer look at these beautiful craft. In our haste we overlooked the
need to take the camera and had to return to shore 10 minutes later to retrieve it from
the car!
The sailing conditions were idyllic. The clear blue skies persisted, the smooth sea glistened and the cooling easterly F3 wind both tempered the 25o +C temperatures and gently filled the sails. Wanderer 863 glided off toward the approaching fleet. We sailed in between the barges and other craft before turning to run with them back to Whitstable. During this time Judy was kept busy with the camera - some of the results can be seen in this newsletter. The barges reduced sail and prepared to enter Whitstable Harbour while others anchored off. From our close vantage point we could witness the crews heaving on lines and winding winches. Slowly the huge expanses of tanned brown sailcloth were miraculously ‘gathered up’ by complex rigging. Massive twin jibs were lowered on giant sliding rings. Topsails were collapsed and lowered. Once complete these 75 year old, 69 ton behemoths, with their 80 ft plus masts and spars, lumbered into harbour each now flying coloured pennants proudly announcing their match positions from previous years. We circled those vessels which had anchored, mostly the smaller Smacks and Yawls, and got some great close up views. During these manoeuvres we were frequently acknowledged by the friendly crews.
Once ashore we found Gavin in conversation with newly arrived Jenny Jeffs {W1330} and Sarah Blain. They had travelled down from the Luton area, to this their first sea cruise, and were staying in a nearby B&B. We had opted for the basic but very convenient ‘bunk house’ accommodation within WYC’s Club House. After tea on the terrace Gavin and Caroline departed and we, having taken up residence high in the club’s attic, enjoyed a superb meal at a highly recommended restaurant just a short distance form WYC. We returned to view the barges resting on the mud within the harbour and chatted with their crew. Later we witnessed a beautiful sun set from the harbour wall - a perfect end to the day.
Sunday August 9th - Sunday morning. ‘I don’t believe it’! Victor’s phrase seemed so apt as I peered out from the attic window. I couldn’t believe the change in the weather! Strong blustery winds, and overcast sky - what a contrast to the previous day. The abrupt weather change caught out some of the other members, freshly arrived, minus appropriate kit for such a day, understandably perhaps, believing that Sunday’s weather was to be a repeat of Saturday! The local chandlers did brisk unexpected trade to address this shortfall in water/wind proofs!
New members Mike and Jane Brown {W498} with their two children, together with Ian and Glenda Nevill {W1098} arrived while were we enjoyed the WYC ‘special’ - a full English breakfast! - bringing our number to 5 boats. These were rigged and at 10am sharp Gavin held the briefing. Weather was forecast as E or NE winds F3-5, with low cloud clearing later and temperatures in the mid twenties. High tide was about 14:40hrs and sping’ish. Variations on the original plan were discussed and member’s views sought. The result of this consultation was an agreed plan to proceed in close formation up the Swale returning for lunch into Faversham Creek where we could go ashore at the Shipwright’s Arms - a popular hostelry on this cruising event! The remaining day’s sailing would be decided over lunch.
and heading generally in the direction of the Pollard
Spit Buoy. Most sported reefed mains and reduced jibs. With the flooding tide and the
brisk easterly we set off at a pace on a long rolling run until we cleared the shallow
water over ‘Whitstable Flats’ and picked up the East Swale channel. During this
episode whoops of excitement could be heard from the children aboard Mike and Jane’s
boat as they surfed down the following waves at speed. The sun came out just as we reached
the Swale channel. At this point we had covered about 2.5 NM very quickly with a further
3.0 NM to go to our planned lunch stop. During our passage up the Swale one of our
‘fleet’ edged a little too near to some shallows {a sand bank}, the resulting
loss of boat speed allowing the wind to blow them on further. This was noted immediately
by the other boats, thanks to the fleet’s close formation, and all four either hove
to or sailed up and down the edge of the shallows to give encouragement to the stranded
boat. Within a few minutes they had dropped the main and with aid of jib, paddles, a fast
rising tide and great determination slowly extracted themselves from their unscheduled
stop.
After this incident Gavin decided on an earlier lunch stop than that originally planned and very soon we were all rounding the North Cardinal mark at the entrance to Faversham Creek pulling up in front of the Shipwrights arms at about 12:45pm. Lunch and liquid refreshment was taken in glorious sunshine.
Freshening winds curtailed our intended exploration of the Creek and it was agreed to launch and regroup at the entrance before commencing the return passage to Whitstable. With the tide due to turn soon and ebb in an easterly direction we knew that this passage would be a wet and bumpy beat with the winds also Easterly at F5. The financial investment made earlier that day on wet proofs for some of our party was about to pay dividends! This return leg of about 5.5NM was conducted in brilliant sunshine. The sea state got up to about 4-5 ft but each boat soon settled down into its own particular rhythm as we beat our way back.
Our own concerns over the amount of sticky mud bought on board during the tricky lee shore launch from Faversham Creek were short lived. Buckets of warm sea water were routinely flung in our faces and over the boat for the entire return trip as we rose up each wave and crashed down into that following. Within minutes all traces of mud on boat and crew were completely eradicated having been blasted into oblivion by the constant water ‘erosion’. Eventually, getting on for two hours later, a safe landfall was made at WYC’s ramp by all five boats. We learned later that Mike and Jane’s daughter had slept for most of the return trip tucked up under the foredeck, in the space normally reserved for Wanderer ‘boxes’!
Everyone pitched in to recover the boats up the ramp and it wasn’t too long before much of the de-rigging was complete and tea could be fully appreciated once more on the WYC terrace. With everyone showered and dried out farewells and thanks were exchanged bringing another WCOA Whitstable Cruise to an end. Many thanks to Gavin for his organisation and to WYC for their hospitality and here’s hoping that we can improve on the attendance for next year’s cruise based on this charming town and the fine cruising area of the Swale River, estuary and creeks.
Photo Details:
Top Photo: Enhanced/Modified picture of Thames Barge approaching
Whitstable Harbour Sat August 8th 1998;
Middle Photo: Jenny Jeffs and crew Sarah in Wanderer 1330 going up the Swale Sunday August
9th 1998.
Bottom Photo: Return to WYC ramp at end of cruise, Author's boat in foreground.